Ryflyke, Norway

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One of many narrow tunnels in Norway
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Suldalslågen river and the hosebridge.
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Waterfalls were everywhere we looked.

Ryfylke National Tourist Highway stretches from Tau to Roldal, through Norway’s fjord country and past waterfalls, zinc mines, and wooden churches. Every few kilometers there are brown signs with a white-knotted squares, indicating tourist stops. They pop up and quickly disappear, though nothing in this country is truly quick, the roads weaving and narrow with tunnels that go on and on until you wonder if the end is ever going to come until, finally, a tiny dot of light can be seen far ahead.

For us, the Ryfylke Highway meant one thing more than all the others – salmon. Read More »

Lysefjord, Norway

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The tiny town of Lysebotn at the end of the Lysefjord is reachable only by boat and the treacherous Lysevegen

The Lysefjord is a perfect example of our time in Norway – lots of driving, sunshine-turned-to-snow-turned-to-sunshine, and inaccessible hiking trails. We started out from Telemark, where we had stopped the night before in the tiny village of Valle at a no-name hotel where we ate our fill of meats, potatoes, and jams for dinner. Leaving Valle, we soon turned off the main road onto the Suleskar Pass, a mountain pass from Setesdal through Sirdal to Ådneram and Suleskar on the Lysefjord. In normal conditions, the pass opens around the first week of May, but, this year, due to seven feet of snow falling the weekend before our roadtrip the pass had been open fewer than 24 hours when we turned off the highway onto the narrow road. Read More »